2007 Rig for 2.2 Nationals

Time to build a real crawler, I have been using that modified mud buggy long enough.

I will update this frequently.

The specs do not include the RC4wd R2 with dig, because I am not sure if they will get here before nationals, and I also have no way of knowing if they will work right etc...

Electronics will be
- 3 cell lipo (tenergy 1250 Mah)
- dual Mamba 25
- Dual Holmes outrunners
- Hitec robot servo
- DX-6
- UBEC (6v version)

Driveline
- TLT axles
- CVDs front and back
- 2x RC4wd R2 trannies with short shafts

Chassis
- Tubes (no real plan yet)(or maybe not)
- Droop or partial droop suspension

about time. i was thinking of 2 trannies and 4 channels on a tlt for seperate axle control awhile back.

hurry up with it.

oh yeah......

GET YOU SOME.

Got it started.

looking good Rene. super or not? looks long for 2.2 comp rig.

It will be 2.2 comp legal, it needs to be buillt up and tested to to make sure my driveline angles will work out. I already realized that the rear needs to move further back.

The fact that the two trannies require so much length is a limiting factor. Doug was over and suggested that I off set the two trannies, which is valid, but then the truck would have to be wider then I want and I like the whole weight straight up the centerline.

I was trying to make the truck a 60/40 set up locates the battery up front. I now realize that was just dumb. The battery is one of the lightest things on this truck. I need to focus on getting every thing low and centered like a racecar. Then set the shocks there in the resting position with half the travel down and half in compression.

The down travel will be the limiting factor due to drive shaft angle, but once I have that hight figured out I will make some bent links (1/4" alum, taped and threaded 3mm). That way I should have a perfectly level bottom edge even with the links fully extended.

There is a possibility that the leading edge of the tranny mounting plate may become a problem, and I have no idea how to correct it if it does.

sounding good. hope it works out for you Rene.

I spent a couple hours on this truck yesterday with zero progress.

I have also spent a couple hours today and have chosen to abondon the behind the axle steering for now.

The kinks appear to work where they are now. Now I just need to make some shock mounts, body mounts and start some testing.

I hope it will move on under its own power tomorrow.

pictures a little dark for me to see on my computer here at work, but do i see two R2s? torque twist shouldnt be a problem. COG however may be your enemy. Nice smooth bottom on the chassis though, should let you slide accross the rocks so just keep the height down real low.

Lighter pictures added.

About the CG, it would be great if there was a quick way to change the preload on the shocks by remote that way the shock would remain fixed therefore making a variable ride height rig legal. I guess a small compressor and air shocks would do this very well, but that would have to be a really small compressor or you could build a two stage shock that extends hydralicly and can be retracted.

I am moving this idea into general discussion.

here it is with full compression shocks, so this will be the best it can do if it get high centerred.



I am building a set of shocks for this truck that the diagonal pair that compresses easily does not expand easily and the one side that is firmer under compression will expand easier. The idea is to have the truck rest mid stroke and not torque twist that much.

(the truck will still torque twist because you the two transmissions are mounted on a single plate and therefore the axles see the same net force as if the power is coming from a single transmission)

looking good Rene. does look like the driveshaft angle is steep.

hey Tony

That is the absolute worst that the drive shaft angle can get, it still turns without binding in that position, that why I made this the top out position.

It will take me several hours to get the shocks built tonight, I guess I can hope that it drives some time tomorrow night.

cool. hurry up.

yeah, but the motors will be turning opposite of each other. wouldnt that counter act torque twist?

also, if you made the bottom pan sort of an upsie down V shape and mouted the trannys to that the drive shaft is in line with the output (kinda pointed down at an angle) would that free up some ground clearance underneath?

here is a short update;





The motors spinning in the opposite direction will not stop torque twist. What could be done is to turn one of the axles the other way. That way you would have two twist acting in the same direction. That would cause the one side to load up durring acceleration and that would suck if you have to side hill the one way.

The V chassis would get you a better break over angle, but I never get stuck with the center of the chassis. I always hang up before the rear tires, which is why I made short bent links on this one.

Its done!!!

It drives and steers etc...

All thats left
evaluate spring rates
add shock oil
add rear CVDs
assemble new Beadlocs (slightly wider stance)
decide on body
mount body

and lots of testing.

The truck does everything in my backyard better then the red tuber except one off-camber up hill turn.

I think that might be because I have no oil in the shocks and the truck is settling to fast.

I have lots of traction. I already let the smoke out of Mamba 25 this morning.

cool. sounds like progress.

It side hills well now too, 40 wt oil in all 4 corners.

I am still having a program issue in my dx 6, the truck is only front wheel drive in reverse. I had this in the Clod too, but I do not remember how I fixed it.

I want to take apartthe rear R2 tranny so that I can have the motor on the other side, if I get that done I will show why.

I am going to stay with the rc4wd beadlocs for now.

And I am replacing the two crawl masters with OG revolvers (silver can gen I). The Crawlmasters have no benefit in this truck and the OG's are lighter and smaller.

Rebuilding the R2 to put the motor on the other side was easy. Now I have a spot on the chassis to mount the battery.

I ran some test with the OG revolvers and 11.1v and that will not work. I have orderred a couple more 7.4 packs and will rewire everything back to run 2 cell lipos. Everything just get to hot running more then 7.4v, I am not sure how everyone else but me does it and is happy with the results?

I will have to do the rest of the programming, and testing with a battery mounted to the top of the chassis.

I just need to figure out why I have no 4wd in reverse and add CVD, other then that it is done.

wow looks good Rene. like the paint.it just seems to fit that rig well.

Thanks Tony;

I figured out where the heat was coming from. I soaked the gears in degreaser and applied Pedros Ice (a cycling product) and the trannys run cool and much quiter.

lookin good man.